MFJ Guide to Girona
Girona is a charming and beautiful city with an impressive cathedral, winding rivers, and a well preserved medieval old town that is well worth a visit. Although small, and therefore easy to get around, the city is renowned for its world class gastronomic offerings. We recommend getting a little lost and wandering the romantic streets, but there are also an array of sights, tours, markets and museums to visit as well as a selection of chic spots for a quick coffee, bars to sample the local vermut, and fabulous restaurants to dine in.
This is the MFJ guide to Girona: what to do, where to stay, and first and foremost, what and where to eat and drink.
WHAT AND WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
El Mercat del Lleó - This is the central food market of Girona where you will find a fantastic selection of exceptionally fresh and high quality fish, meat, fruit and vegetables as well as interesting cheeses and cured meats, including of course, jamon iberico, as well as great wines, rices and spices. We recommend picking up some local rice from Pals, as well as some pimenton dulce from La Vera (sweet smoked paprika), Andalusian saffron and some pulpa de ñora, a paste made from sun dried round red peppers. This will complete your paella kit to impress your friends with back at home.
Xiuxo - A naughty local speciality pronounced ‘choo-cho’. Croissant pastry that shaped into a roll and then deep fried, before being filled with a Catalan style crema flavoured with citrus and cinnamon, and finally dusted in sugar. We think that the best is from Antiga Casa Bellsola 1892. They have a few shops around town.
Sinofos - Our favourite place to eat in Girona because of the passion, the quality, the pride, the informal atmosphere, and just the right level of experimentation. The dedicated chefs working predominantly with fire from the small open kitchen are a wonder to watch.
SAFO - Another modern take on Catalan cuisine that respects quality and simplicity whilst also adding a touch of experimentation. Everything is executed with skill and precision. Small plates and natural wines.
Le Bistrot - The most romantic restaurant in Girona, with timeless decor and al fresco tables on the stone steps that lead up to the university. As the name suggests the menu is inspired by the concept of a bistrot, with some Catalan touches.
Idle Hands - The best coffee and brunch in Girona.
El Celler De Can Roca - You cannot talk about food in Girona without talking about the Roca brothers. Their 3 Michelin starred restaurant is widely regarded by food critics as the best restaurant in the world. It won this accolade twice, once in 2013 and then again in 2015. After two rankings at the top, restaurateurs step aside to allow other restaurants to come up. Steve completed their gruelling training programme in 2022, but unfortunately that does not mean he can get you a table. Reservations open up monthly, 9 months in advance, and usually sell out in seconds. It is worth calling for cancellations. This is a 24 course high art experience of a lifetime that celebrates creativity, hard work and Catalan ingredients. Expect to pay 300 euros for the privilege plus wine from their extensive cellar.
The Rest of the Roca World - The three brothers also have their fingers in many other tasty pies around the city, offering an invitation into the Roca world for those not able to visit the mothership:
Restaurant Normal - An offering from the brothers to show that they can also make ‘normal’ food. This is a more classic restaurant but still fine dining. Expect to pay approximately 80 euros per person.
Can Roca - The original restaurant of the family that opened in 1967, where the brothers trained and grew their reputation. This is still where the staff eat their meals, and afterwards the restaurant opens for a fantastic lunch menu of a starter, a main course and dessert for 16 euros.
Espirit Roca - A new concept that is gradually opening through 2024/25, and where version 3 of their restaurant will be opening. This is based in an old castle and diamond museum on a hill just outside of Girona. Currently you can visit the restaurant to try some of their iconic dishes from throughout the years.
Casa Cacao - A high quality chocolate shop from Jordi Roca, the pastry chef of the three brothers. There is also a hotel with a beautiful terrace that offers brunch on the weekends.
Rocambolesc - Jordi Roca’s ice cream shop where you can try some interesting and playful ice cream pairings.
La Garrina - A lively natural wine bar with a great outdoor terrace that is always fun and sociable.
WHERE TO GO
Passeig de la Muralla - In between all this food it is advisable to stretch your legs. This 3km walk takes you through the city along the top of the original city walls, and offers spectacular views of the city and the surrounding hills and mountains. Sunrise or sunset recommended for obvious reasons.
Girona Cathedral - Renowned for having an exceptionally wide knave. It certainly does give the huge room a spiritual feeling of spaciousness. There are elements from different periods of history, the most notable being the gothic detailing and the baroque stairs.
Cinema Museum - If cinema is your thing, then the cinema museum offers interesting artefacts, information, stories, and of course film, about the history of cinema.
Pont de Eiffel - You might have heard of Gustave Eiffel. This is a bridge his company designed and built in 1867, a precursor to a rather famous tower he designed in Paris.
Game of Thrones - If you are a fan of the series you may recognise some of the architecture from Girona. Most of season 6 was filmed in Girona and required little CGI. The old winding streets, the cathedral and the infamous steps of shame are popular for GOT superfans and there is a great guided tour if you would like some extra inside information.
Cycling - You may notice a high proportion of the population wearing lycra! Girona is renowned as the best city in the world for cyclists. Lance Armstrong made it his home in the 90s, and the city now houses a large community of professional cyclists and enthusiasts, lured by the combination of a clean but cosmopolitan city mixed with easy access to quiet roads and gravel tracks that go up into the Pyrenees, or over the plains towards the Mediterranean sea. Pick up some bikes from one of many local hire shops and go for a spin or take a guided tour.
WHERE TO STAY
Airbnb - There are lots of short term rentals available. Try to stay in the old town which is known as the Barri Vell.
Hotel Casa Cacao - A boutique hotel run by the Roca brothers.
Hotel Peninsular - A well located 3* hotel that has received good reviews from friends and family.